Posts tagged travel
Japan

Below are some photos from my travels to Japan this past September. This was my second trip to the country; my first being a quick 4-day jaunt to Tokyo from South Korea back in 2016. This time I stayed for two weeks and got to travel around a bit more and even visited one of the Okinawa islands.

These photos were taken in Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, and Miyako-jima (one of the Okinawa Islands).

Recommendations by City

Tokyo

  • Do:

    • Eat a sushi lunch at Toyosu Market (you’ll want to confirm the market’s operation hours prior to showing up; Toyosu is Tokyo’s largest wholesale market since the famous Tsukiji Market closed its doors in late 2018). You can book an early morning (like 5 am) tour to see the wholesale fish auction, but seeing the market during other hours is quite unexciting. The action happens in the early hours. So if you’re there another time just go eat. The fish is super delicate and fresh.

    • Listen to Japanese hip hop at the Tsutaya Record Shop in Shibuya Crossing. Most people probably end up at Tsutaya Records by way of the Starbucks on the 2nd Floor, which according to the Internet is the best place from which to take a photo of the famous Shibuya Crossing. Tsutaya is a throwback in that you can listen to CDs using the headphones located in the store.

    • Dance Dance Revolution at the Sega Arcade in Akihabara complete with six floors. I mean you’re in Japan, the capital of Otaku culture. I’m preferential to DDR, but there are hundreds of other games that should peak your interest.

    • See Sumo at the Ryōgoku Kokugikan. I went to a sumo match on my last trip to Tokyo in 2016 and I definitely recommend it; ideally as part of a tour so that you learn some of the history/context prior to watching the match (I did mine with Viator). Sumo tournaments only take place in Tokyo in January, May, and September. Other cities have tournaments during other months. Plan ahead!

    • Grab a drink in Shinjuku’s Golden Gai. I don’t drink, but these dive-y, back alleyway bars are worth a visit even if only to grab a seltzer.

    • Buy an international data card and download Google Translate! Really! You’ll be able to talk to folks and translate menus from Japanese to English. This was very helpful.

Kyoto

  • Do:

    • Stay at a Ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn). There are basic ones like the one I stayed at - Luck You Bukkoji - and ones with more amenities (i.e. baths, etc.) Kyoto is considered the cultural capital of Japan so this is a nice cultural touch unless you have back issues and absolutely need a western-style bed.

    • Take a meditation course at Shunkoin Temple with Rev Takafumi Kawakami. This was one of the highlights of my trip. Rev Takafumi does a short talk before the 20-minute meditation on mindfulness, western vs eastern conceptualizations of happiness, the purpose of meditation, etc. This temple also has courses for tea ceremony and japanese calligraphy and sits among a complex of temples in northwest Kyoto.

    • Eat a zen vegetarian meal at Shigetsu, Tenryuji Temple’s restaurant. Lots of little dishes that together are extremely filling. And if you’re not versed on Japanese zen cuisine you won’t really know what you’re eating which is fun in my opinion. Somewhat pricey (between $35-$80 depending on the spread + $5 garden admission), but worth it. You’ll want to make reservations ahead of time as well.

    • Visit the Daigoji Temple Grounds. Beautiful gardens, pagoda (oldest building in Kyoto), etc. And was not crowded at all when we visited.

    • Visit Nishiki Market to eat! Lots of little storefronts selling everything from sashimi popsicles to mochi to octopus buns; walk the whole market first to see what’s there and then eat your way through the market.

    • Right near the Nishiki Market is Daishodo which you will not want to miss if you want a unique Japanese art print or artist book to take home.

  • Skip the Fushimi Inari Taisha and Arashiyama (Bamboo Forest). These are the first couple of things to come up in Google when looking for what to do in Kyoto. Fushimi is exquisite, but it’s EXTREMELY crowded and everyone is trying (in vain) to get a photo that has no one else in it. Unless you’re really a student/follower of the Shinto religion I think you can take your time at other shrines that won’t be so overrun. Arashiyama was just a let down. It’s pretty small, not much to see, and you will get eaten alive by mosquitoes.

Osaka

I only spent a day in Osaka so my recommendations are pretty sparse.

  • Visit the Osaka Castle.

  • Eat a red bean taiyaki.

  • Hang out by the Dontonbori Canal. I can only liken this place to Times Square so you have been warned.

  • Stroll the quiet, hipster Nakazakicho neighborhood.

Miyako-jima

Miyako-jima was extremely interesting. It seemed like maybe there had been a bad storm to hit the island recently and folks left as a result. There were a lot of abandoned or closed buildings. A lot of the island is just agricultural land and it’s not super touristy or developed, which I liked. There’s a small downtown with some restaurants, but Miyako-jima is not disney-ified yet. The culture is also way more laid back that mainland Japan, which was a welcome reprieve.

  • Caution: You need an international license to rent a car in Japan! The best way to get around Miyako-jima is by car, but we made do by renting bicycles from our hotel and pre-arranging rides from taxi drivers met at the airport.

  • Do:

    • Bicycle around the island. We biked out of necessity (16 miles/26km on one day in particular), but it was actually a great way to see the island and discover small, untouched beaches.

    • This goes without saying, but visit the beaches since that’s probably why you’re in Okinawa to begin with. They are fantastic and there’s some great snorkeling to be done.

      • For relaxation: Sunayama Beach in the north part of the island. This small beach has a picturesque rock formation that lots of folks come to photograph and leave right after lol, but it never got too crowded. Not too many amenities so bring food/drinks with you. Stop at Fukugi Cafe on your way there or on the way back.

      • For Snorkeling: Shigira Beach (southern side of the island) and Yoshinokaigan Beach (southeast part of the island). Shigira Beach is a part of a resort so you can rent snorkeling gear there and there’s also a restaurant. The water at Shigira is very shallow, so not good for swimming, but great for snorkeling (we saw nemo fish there). Yoshinokaigan Beach is at the bottom of a very steep hill so you will not want to bike there. Gear rental is at the top of the hill. No amenities (bathroom/food) once on the beach so prepare accordingly. We spent the entire day there subsisting off of triangle kimbaps and some random snacks we had. Don’t be us.

      • For water sports: Yonaha Maehama Beach (southwestern part of the island). If you want to rent jet skis or do other water sports this is a good spot.

Italy

This past August I had the opportunity to spend two weeks traveling around Italy. 

This trip was different for me as I set out to take a real vacation. Usually I'm running around taking photographs and sightseeing, but this time I had just had a summer of back-to-back trips for work and would be starting a new job and graduate school when I returned, so I told myself that I would see some sights, but mostly that I would relax and enjoy. 

Italy was beautiful and I was able to balance sightseeing with spas, beaches, bike rides and cliff jumping. As a history nerd, I felt kind of foolish not reading up before visiting as there's just so much in every monument, sculpture and ruin that you don't want to miss.  Next time, I'll visit the southern tip of the country and Sicily.

These photos were taken in Rome, Florence, Cinque Terre and La Maddalena, Sardinia. 

Recommendations for High Season: 

Rome

Never show up to any of Rome's major tourist attractions (Colosseum, Roman Ruins, etc.) without a ticket. Just don't. It's way too hot (like 100F) and the line will be horrendous. 

Use the public water drinking sprouts. 

Ladies! St. Peter's Basilica does not play when it comes to modesty. If you show up with short shorts, a short skirt or a top that doesn't cover your chest/shoulders you will be turned away and told to buy a cover-up.  Pick your outfit accordingly.   

Rent an electric bike to cruise the Appian Way (aka Via Appia Antica). The Appian Way is Rome's oldest road. You can take Bus 118 from most of Rome's central tourist sites to Punto Informativo Appia Antica, where you can rent bikes.  Lots of very interesting sites along the way including the catacombs. 

If you're really in vacation mode, visit the spa at the Crowne Plaza St. Peter's Basilica in Rome.  Forty-five (45) euros gets you an all-day pass to an indoor pool, traditional sauna, turkish steam room, massage showers, fitness equipment, etc. 

Florence

Book ahead at least a week to get tickets to Uffizi Gallery and the Academy Gallery. 

If you care to splurge, 100 euros gets you access to the Four Seasons Hotel Firenze spa in Florence.  It was nice, don't get me wrong, but I thought the Crowne Plaza in Rome was a better value.  

Uber / Lyft do not exist in Florence as of August 2017. This made for a panicked morning before our flight to Sardinia. The phone number at the taxi stand also did not work. Figure out your transportation well ahead of time. The trains and buses work well. Use them. 

Where to Eat: Trattoria Acquacotta, Il Vezzo, Mattacena 

Cinque Terre  

Cinque Terre is super touristy, but worth a day.  The towns are picturesque and Monterosso has a beach, but it's overrun by people on guided tours and photo nerds looking to recreate Manarola's famous postcard shot.

As such, don't bother booking a guided tour.  You can take a TrenItalia train from Florence to La Spezia, then either walk or take regional trains to travel between the five towns: Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso. 

Spend 20 euros and get a full body massage from the Chinese ladies who walk up and down the beach in Monterosso. I was not aware prior to traveling to Italy, but immigrants, mostly from South and East Asia, hold up the country's tourism industry (especially the informal sectors).  Might as well support them and get the cheapest (and probably best) massage available in Italy at the same time. 

Where to Eat: Lapo's, gelato at Gelateria Vernazza (best gelato I had in Italy - try the Apricot Cinnamon or Stracciatella) 

La Maddalena, Sardinia

If you're looking to vacation where the Italians vacation I would suggest La Maddalena. I think I heard English one or two times while there.

How to get there: Fly to Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport, then take the TurmoTravel bus (3.50 euros one-way) headed to Santa Teresa di Gallura. Get off at Palau (stop before Santa Teresa) and then take the Delcomar ferry to La Maddalena. Quicker, but more expensive is taking a private car from the airport to Palau instead of the bus (it is $70-75 euros one-way).  The TurmoTravel bus schedule is optimist.  It says it takes 1-hour to get from Olbia to Palau, it really takes at least two. Plan accordingly.  Meridiana and Mistral Air fly frequently to Olbia and for pretty affordable rates. 

Skip the countless boat tours that line the port. Rent an electric bike instead from Nicol Sport and bike to the beaches of Isola Maddalena and Isola Caprera.  Don't bother eating lunch in town either. Grab fruit and bread from Le Delizie Sarde and cheese from La Casa de Formaggio and head out for the day.  Beaches to visit: Bassa Trinita and Cala Coticcio (bring water and good shoes for the 45-minute hike).

Make reservations for dinner at least one day before if not more.  Italians vacation in La Maddalena and they like to eat out and eat late.   

Where to Eat: Ristorante Magreta, Pasticceria Ottimo Dolce e Salato, Dolce Distrazioni, Osteria de Lio, L'Alternative Steak House 

All photos shot in August 2017.

Photos of me taken by Ana María Reichenbach (Thank you!)

Sometime ago I realized that being a photographer meant that I would have photographs of everything and everyone but myself. I've made a sincere attempt over the past few years to make sure I get photos of myself somehow someway. Even if that means arguing with someone about aperture in the street :)